Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Listening To Dakar Wake Up

My room in the Hotel Provençial is on the second floor over a small--6' by 6' semi outdoor cafe/breakfast place a block off the Place d'Independence.  My windows consist of 4 sets of louvered glass on such rusty hardware that they barely move and certainly don't close.  So I hear everything.  I can hear the guy come in the morning and start to get ready for his day.  Then I can hear the customers coming--I would suspect that most of his customers are regulars.  He makes coffee and omelettes and probably a few other things.

I enjoy listening to all this.  It's like an alarm clock with snooze.  It wakes me up into a dreamy semiconscious state where I can appreciate being able to sleep.  His customers, when they come are happy and laughing and talking sometimes in French, but mostly, I suspect, in Wolof.  People who grow up with multiple languages shift back and forth effortlessly.

The extra nice thing about this morning is that I no longer feel sick. I have that nice feeling you have when you wake up to your first 100% healthy day after a bad cold--when you really and truly appreciate the gift of health.

Last night I went to bed early feeling pretty good--just a decreasing lingering cough and some stiffness along with tiredness.  I went out in the early evening.  There were 2 things I had to get done. First, in order to get back into the American embassy I need a photocopy of my passport.  I didn't have one, so I took my USB drive which has scanned images of my passport and yellow book and printed out a copy.  Turns out I chose a color printer so it was 500 CFA.  Oh well.  It'll get me into the embassy quickly.  The other thing I had to was eat.  I chose a nice Lebanese place called Layal.  I had kefta in tomato sauce with potato.  It was very good.  They were out of flag so I had some Royal Dutch or Meister or something--it sucked.  I do miss the PNW beer options.  I especially miss the Alaskan Amber--my beer of choice.

Today I plan to get my passport, scope out the place where the minibuses and sept-places leave for far destinations.  Tomorrow I'll go somewhere.  Since the Guinea-Bissau visa expires early and I still have Gambia to do on the way down, I'm thinking of skipping Mauritania.  But I think I'd like to check out Saint Louis.  So maybe I'll go spend a couple days in Saint Louis, then come back to Dakar.  I think I can get a room again at this hotel, and then leave the next day for Gambia.  I'll have to think a bit.  I just don't want to show up in a new city on a Friday or Saturday when it's hardest to find a hotel.

August 5, 2008 9:10 Senegal local time

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